Before the development of cultured pearls, all pearls were natural. These treasures were found only by accident, and at considerable peril. Natural pearls had great mystique, luminous beauty as well as value, which made them the favorites of queens – and kings.
One of the most famous pearls of the 17th century belonged to King Charles (1600-1649). The origins of this single pearl earring are unknown, but Charles is first shown wearing it in a miniature as the 15-year-old Prince of Wales.
King Charles' large teardrop-shaped pearl – a rare and desired shape – was made into a dangling earring with a tiny gold crown as the cap, topped with an orb and cross: most fitting for a future king.
Since Queen Elizabeth's reign, fashionable English gentlemen had worn single earrings as a sign of courtly swagger and bravado, qualities the young prince was woefully lacking: Charles was slight and short (only 5'3"), he limped from childhood rickets, he stammered, and he was acutely shy. Perhaps the sizable pearl gave him some confidence that nature had not endowed.
Prince Charles wore the pearl for the rest of his life, and it appears in nearly every portrait of him, including one of him dressed casually for hunting. He developed into a style-conscious king who patronized the arts, and the single earring suited him as a romantic, cavalier king.
While King Charles was a excellent patron of the arts, he was a wretched king to his people, stubbornly unable to reconcile his subjects' desires and expectations with his own.
After barely surviving two civil wars, King Charles was captured by Parliament, tried, and found guilty of high treason. He was executed on 30 January 1649, beheaded with a single stroke of the ax on a scaffold outside the Banqueting House. He was wearing the pearl earring at his death.
Even when committing regicide, this was Puritan England. King Charles' earring was respectfully removed when his head was sewn back on his body in preparation for burial. The earring was sent as to his oldest daughter, Mary, the Princess Royal and Princess of Orange (1631-1660), as Charles had requested.
After Mary's death in 1660 the earring found its way to one of the late king's most loyal supporters, William Cavendish, 1st Duke of Newcastle (1592-1672), who had also been entrusted with the education of the king's eldest son, the future Charles II.
The earring remains in the collection of the Duke of Newcastle at his home, Welbeck Abbey, Nottinghamshire, now owned by the Dukes of Portland.
Hastings was a Cinque Port, which made no sense in Pepys' time because the harbor washed away centuries ago, so the fishing fleet had to be launched from the beach (still is). However, it was an old, historic town, and as such had certain rights, and held a fine smuggling tradition with the French.
A few miles down the coast was Dungeness, which is a wild expanse of shingle ridges, built up over the years by longshore drift. By the end of the medieval period it had grown into a promontory reaching out into the English Channel and became a shipping hazard.
Improvements in 16th century maritime technology led to an increase in both the number and size of ships in the English Channel. Reportedly during just one winter storm more than 1,000 sailors died when many valuable cargo ships sank. No doubt the men of Hastings were there to harvest what they could from the wrecks.
The first lighthouse, a simple wooden tower about 35 ft high, with an open coal fire on the top, was licensed to private ownership by James I and VI in August 1615.
But the sea receded, and the shingle banks grew, so a second, this time brick, lighthouse approximately 110 ft high, was built around 1635.
This lighthouse lasted over 100 years, but also became hard to see from Channel because of the increasing shingle banks.
Trinity House required a third Lighthouse, which was built in 1790. This one was about 116 ft tall, similar in design to the Eddystone lighthouse, was lit by 17 Argon lamps, fueled first by oil and later by petroleum, which were magnified by silvered concave reflectors.
The struggle between the Channel, the shingle banks, and the maritime industry continues. For more information, see https://dungenesslighthouse.com/h…
I was about to take Jon to task for saying there was a lighthouse at Dungeness in 1664, but he turns out to be correct:
Dungeness is an expanse of shingle ridges, built up over the years by longshore drift. By the end of the medieval period it had grown into a promontory reaching out into the English Channel and became a shipping hazard.
Improvements in 16th century maritime technology led to an increase in both the number and size of ships in the English Channel. Reportedly during just one winter storm more than 1,000 sailors died when many valuable cargo ships sank.
The first lighthouse, a simple wooden tower about 35 ft high, with an open coal fire on the top, was licensed to private ownership by James I and VI in August 1615.
But the sea receded and the shingle banks grew, so a second this time brick lighthouse, approximately 110 ft high, was built around 1635.
This lighthouse lasted over 100 years, but also became hard to see from Channel because of the increasing shingle banks.
Trinity House required a third Lighthouse, which was built in 1790. This one was about 116 ft tall, similar in design to the Eddystone lighthouse, was lit by 17 Argon lamps, fuelled first by oil and later by petroleum, which were magnified by silvered concave reflectors.
The struggle between the Channel, the shingle banks, and the maritime industry continues. For more information, see https://dungenesslighthouse.com/h…
In 1665 or thereabouts, Johannes Vermeer painted Girl with a Pearl Earring -- or did he?
Yes, he painted the masterpiece known as Girl with a Pearl Earring, but look closely again. Think you see a pearl dangling exotically from her ear? The bauble is but a pigment of your imagination. With a flick of the wrist and two expert dabs of paint, Vermeer tricks your visual cortices of the occipital lobes into seeing a pearl. Squint as much as you like -- there is no loop connecting the ornament to her ear.
Vermeer’s precious gem is an optical illusion, which reflects back on ourselves, and our own illusory presence in the world.
The first royal Aztec treasures that Cortés looted were shipped across the Atlantic in 1521. But they never reached Madrid. The treasures, which included gold and silver jewelry, pearls, jade, and three live jaguars, were intercepted and looted by a flotilla of French privateers led by an Italian variously named Jean Fleury, Giovanni da Verrazano, Juan Florentino, or El Francés (when sailing with French financing).
Thus the first real treasure of the New World arrived at the royal court in Paris: half a tonne of gold, 300 kilograms of pearls, and an emerald as large as a man's fist.
Although Jean Fleury's ships were legally warships acting for the King of France during wartime, the Spanish executed him as a pirate when they captured him in 1527.
Later, in Manila, the Spanish and Chinese merchants made fortunes as Spanish (New World) silver was traded for spices, silks, ivory, pearls, jade, gold, jewels, and other luxury goods, most of them from China. The Chinese trade flourished late in the 16th century, so the streets of Manila became paved with granite cobble-stones brought from China as ballast in Chinese and Spanish ships.
It didn't take many generations for the wealth of South America to be transferred to China. Spain, the wealthiest country in the world, lost it all.
The Chinese always have been very good at supplying luxury goods people want to consume.
I received mine today, in a beautiful presentation package. I'm glad I "voted" for Mr. Pepys' inclusion in this year's commemorative coins. If you have a history lover on your list of "people who have everything" this would be a nice gift.
"I wonder if all the afternoon's to and froing was simply to stay near the Cockpit to see off Albemarle when he showed ..."
There seems to have been no other reason, unless he was avoiding Elizabeth and William Joyce. Or he wanted Lady Castlemaine to see his "new black coate, long down to my knees, ..."
If Albemarle's taking the fleet, there has been no obvious preparation. Give us information, Pepys! We need more.
Pepys had his outing with Betty Martin set up for a while.
He said: "Anon comes home my wife from Brampton, not looked for till Saturday, which will hinder me of a little pleasure, but I am glad of her coming."
"What could there possibly be about Sam and Bess to gossip about?"
Does Pepys know that a prophet is never recognized in his own country? His neighbors have seen/met his parents, so they know of his humble origins ... seen Balty, so they think Elizabeth a suspect pretentious French woman ... and listened to Wayneman's howls. They see his house growing larger and more opulent every year. They give him rides in their coaches, host parties and have him to lunch, which he rarely reciprocates, all while begrudging them their "gratuities."
Seems to me he has been doing his best to ignore the neighbors for years already.
I'm sure Elizabeth is fairly well informed about Pepys' financial affairs ... but the strong box is in his closett, and he has the key. I believe he looks carefully at the end of the month accounts she prepares. I presume he regularly gives her money to buy food, and I trust he gives out more than we are told for clothing and livery for Tom. I think he has a quiet chuckle with her when he pulls a fast one, or marvels at the generosity of Mr. Warren. She may not know the exact figures involved, but she knows that portrait is symbolic of having "made it" ... she enjoys the silk wall paper in her room ... she polishes that carved staircase with pride, and sits on her new balcony with pleasure. She knows her clever husband can find a way to give Pall more, and he can afford more now for his parents than he could when their deal was agreed. I think this self-confidence grew last summer when she was mostly on her own for six months. It even sounds like she rode unescorted in the coach from Brampton this time (daring the highwaymen to show themselves?). Pepys appears to be enjoying his more liberated wife than the passive-aggressive, sulky one he had for a couple of years before the plague. He is certainly proud of her painting talent and beauty, and trusted her with these negotiations. They are maturing into full-grown adults and partners.
I googled "lay down my cloak" and came up with many Palm Sunday references to laying down palms and cloaks before Jesus as he rode into Jerusalem. But that was last weekend.
"I was considering where I could with most confidence in a time of need borrow 10s. ...."
I had assumed that Pepys was in charge of what we would consider Petty Cash. After all, he doles it out to the Admirals when the fleet sails:
http://www.pepysdiary.com/diary/1… "... there comes W. Howe for my Lord’s bill of Imprest for 500l. to carry with him this voyage," 'This is petty cash for the 12 ships under Sandwich's control. He may have to buy provisions, water, masts, or pay for innkeepers to care for sick or injured seamen, etc. during the voyage, so he needs a cash float.'
And Pepys seems to use it to buy books for himself and the office. I had considered balancing Petty Cash to be one of the problems he had with his monthly accounts.
Getting these lined books ready for the Muster-Masters is a legitimate expense. All I can think is that the Navy is now out of cash, so the Petty Cash/Imprest is empty. The old woman would not want a tally stick to negotiate at the goldsmiths.
Surely Pepys could have gone to Penn or Brouncker? Parliament is not sitting, so they are presumably in the office -- and they knew the Navy was broke, as did Carteret, as we know. Perhaps this would have involved loss of face, as Pepys has been throwing his money around recently and they would wonder why he didn't front the money?
A personal loan would be a whole different, more political problem than paying for some lined paper.
"Up, and set my people, Mercer, W. Hewer, Tom and the girle at work ..."
So much for my idea that Tom Edwards is with Elizabeth, freeing up his bedroom for the renovations. Perhaps Elizabeth's independent summer showed Pepys that she doesn't need a chaperone any more? Nah -- he was showing her off at Westminster Hall recently, so she was still beautiful. Could Pepys have sent the cook? Highly unlikely ...
Betty Martin Lane – Only six weeks ago: “and then to Mrs. Lane’s, and there lent her 5l. upon 4l. 01s. in gold. And then did what I would with her, and I perceive she is come to be very bad, and offers any thing, that it is dangerous to have to do with her, nor will I see [her] any more a good while.” -- https://www.pepysdiary.com/diary/…
And in that six weeks no mention of writing any vows.
"... stood in his closett with a great many others ..."
In some wealthy houses the room next to the chapel had a window in the wall overlooking the alter. That way, when the King/Lord of the Manor or a member of his family was ill, they could technically attend Mass without getting dressed and going out into public -- or even getting out of bed. The room could also be used as a discreet overflow balcony, as in this case.
Comments
Second Reading
About Pearls
San Diego Sarah • Link
Before the development of cultured pearls, all pearls were natural. These treasures were found only by accident, and at considerable peril. Natural pearls had great mystique, luminous beauty as well as value, which made them the favorites of queens – and kings.
One of the most famous pearls of the 17th century belonged to King Charles (1600-1649). The origins of this single pearl earring are unknown, but Charles is first shown wearing it in a miniature as the 15-year-old Prince of Wales.
King Charles' large teardrop-shaped pearl – a rare and desired shape – was made into a dangling earring with a tiny gold crown as the cap, topped with an orb and cross: most fitting for a future king.
Since Queen Elizabeth's reign, fashionable English gentlemen had worn single earrings as a sign of courtly swagger and bravado, qualities the young prince was woefully lacking: Charles was slight and short (only 5'3"), he limped from childhood rickets, he stammered, and he was acutely shy. Perhaps the sizable pearl gave him some confidence that nature had not endowed.
Prince Charles wore the pearl for the rest of his life, and it appears in nearly every portrait of him, including one of him dressed casually for hunting. He developed into a style-conscious king who patronized the arts, and the single earring suited him as a romantic, cavalier king.
While King Charles was a excellent patron of the arts, he was a wretched king to his people, stubbornly unable to reconcile his subjects' desires and expectations with his own.
After barely surviving two civil wars, King Charles was captured by Parliament, tried, and found guilty of high treason. He was executed on 30 January 1649, beheaded with a single stroke of the ax on a scaffold outside the Banqueting House. He was wearing the pearl earring at his death.
Even when committing regicide, this was Puritan England.
King Charles' earring was respectfully removed when his head was sewn back on his body in preparation for burial. The earring was sent as to his oldest daughter, Mary, the Princess Royal and Princess of Orange (1631-1660), as Charles had requested.
After Mary's death in 1660 the earring found its way to one of the late king's most loyal supporters, William Cavendish, 1st Duke of Newcastle (1592-1672), who had also been entrusted with the education of the king's eldest son, the future Charles II.
The earring remains in the collection of the Duke of Newcastle at his home, Welbeck Abbey, Nottinghamshire, now owned by the Dukes of Portland.
For more information, see http://hoydensandfirebrands.blogs…
About The Royal Society
San Diego Sarah • Link
"I count religion but a childish toy, and hold there is no sin but ignorance." --
Christopher Marlowe (1564-1593)
About Wednesday 18 April 1666
San Diego Sarah • Link
"Sir W. Batten and Sir T. Allen and I to Mr. Lilly’s, the painter’s; ..."
"Later in his career, Peter Lely ran an informal drawing school from his home in Covent Garden, encouraging artists to draw from the live model."
Sadly the article doesn't say when "later" was ... but Covent Garden was an artsy place to live at the time. https://www.codart.nl/guide/agend…
About Hastings
San Diego Sarah • Link
Hastings was a Cinque Port, which made no sense in Pepys' time because the harbor washed away centuries ago, so the fishing fleet had to be launched from the beach (still is). However, it was an old, historic town, and as such had certain rights, and held a fine smuggling tradition with the French.
A few miles down the coast was Dungeness, which is a wild expanse of shingle ridges, built up over the years by longshore drift. By the end of the medieval period it had grown into a promontory reaching out into the English Channel and became a shipping hazard.
Improvements in 16th century maritime technology led to an increase in both the number and size of ships in the English Channel. Reportedly during just one winter storm more than 1,000 sailors died when many valuable cargo ships sank. No doubt the men of Hastings were there to harvest what they could from the wrecks.
The first lighthouse, a simple wooden tower about 35 ft high, with an open coal fire on the top, was licensed to private ownership by James I and VI in August 1615.
But the sea receded, and the shingle banks grew, so a second, this time brick, lighthouse approximately 110 ft high, was built around 1635.
This lighthouse lasted over 100 years, but also became hard to see from Channel because of the increasing shingle banks.
Trinity House required a third Lighthouse, which was built in 1790. This one was about 116 ft tall, similar in design to the Eddystone lighthouse, was lit by 17 Argon lamps, fueled first by oil and later by petroleum, which were magnified by silvered concave reflectors.
The struggle between the Channel, the shingle banks, and the maritime industry continues. For more information, see https://dungenesslighthouse.com/h…
About Wednesday 24 August 1664
San Diego Sarah • Link
I was about to take Jon to task for saying there was a lighthouse at Dungeness in 1664, but he turns out to be correct:
Dungeness is an expanse of shingle ridges, built up over the years by longshore drift. By the end of the medieval period it had grown into a promontory reaching out into the English Channel and became a shipping hazard.
Improvements in 16th century maritime technology led to an increase in both the number and size of ships in the English Channel. Reportedly during just one winter storm more than 1,000 sailors died when many valuable cargo ships sank.
The first lighthouse, a simple wooden tower about 35 ft high, with an open coal fire on the top, was licensed to private ownership by James I and VI in August 1615.
But the sea receded and the shingle banks grew, so a second this time brick lighthouse, approximately 110 ft high, was built around 1635.
This lighthouse lasted over 100 years, but also became hard to see from Channel because of the increasing shingle banks.
Trinity House required a third Lighthouse, which was built in 1790. This one was about 116 ft tall, similar in design to the Eddystone lighthouse, was lit by 17 Argon lamps, fuelled first by oil and later by petroleum, which were magnified by silvered concave reflectors.
The struggle between the Channel, the shingle banks, and the maritime industry continues. For more information, see https://dungenesslighthouse.com/h…
About Pearls
San Diego Sarah • Link
In 1665 or thereabouts, Johannes Vermeer painted Girl with a Pearl Earring -- or did he?
Yes, he painted the masterpiece known as Girl with a Pearl Earring, but look closely again. Think you see a pearl dangling exotically from her ear? The bauble is but a pigment of your imagination. With a flick of the wrist and two expert dabs of paint, Vermeer tricks your visual cortices of the occipital lobes into seeing a pearl. Squint as much as you like -- there is no loop connecting the ornament to her ear.
Vermeer’s precious gem is an optical illusion, which reflects back on ourselves, and our own illusory presence in the world.
About Pearls
San Diego Sarah • Link
The word baroque derives from the idea of an “imperfect pearl”: something lustrous with a beguiling flaw.
About Pearls
San Diego Sarah • Link
Were did all these pearls come from?
According to:
http://www.sonofthesouth.net/slav…
Pirates love treasure, as we remember:
The first royal Aztec treasures that Cortés looted were shipped across the Atlantic in 1521. But they never reached Madrid. The treasures, which included gold and silver jewelry, pearls, jade, and three live jaguars, were intercepted and looted by a flotilla of French privateers led by an Italian variously named Jean Fleury, Giovanni da Verrazano, Juan Florentino, or El Francés (when sailing with French financing).
Thus the first real treasure of the New World arrived at the royal court in Paris: half a tonne of gold, 300 kilograms of pearls, and an emerald as large as a man's fist.
Although Jean Fleury's ships were legally warships acting for the King of France during wartime, the Spanish executed him as a pirate when they captured him in 1527.
Later, in Manila, the Spanish and Chinese merchants made fortunes as Spanish (New World) silver was traded for spices, silks, ivory, pearls, jade, gold, jewels, and other luxury goods, most of them from China. The Chinese trade flourished late in the 16th century, so the streets of Manila became paved with granite cobble-stones brought from China as ballast in Chinese and Spanish ships.
It didn't take many generations for the wealth of South America to be transferred to China. Spain, the wealthiest country in the world, lost it all.
The Chinese always have been very good at supplying luxury goods people want to consume.
About Sunday 2 September 1666
San Diego Sarah • Link
The BBC have a wonderful podcast on the Great Fire, which they have left for about 10 years now, so I trust it will stay for posterity:
https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play…
About New Samuel Pepys £2 coin
San Diego Sarah • Link
I received mine today, in a beautiful presentation package. I'm glad I "voted" for Mr. Pepys' inclusion in this year's commemorative coins. If you have a history lover on your list of "people who have everything" this would be a nice gift.
About Sunday 22 April 1666
San Diego Sarah • Link
"I wonder if all the afternoon's to and froing was simply to stay near the Cockpit to see off Albemarle when he showed ..."
There seems to have been no other reason, unless he was avoiding Elizabeth and William Joyce. Or he wanted Lady Castlemaine to see his "new black coate, long down to my knees, ..."
If Albemarle's taking the fleet, there has been no obvious preparation. Give us information, Pepys! We need more.
About Friday 20 April 1666
San Diego Sarah • Link
Pepys had his outing with Betty Martin set up for a while.
He said: "Anon comes home my wife from Brampton, not looked for till Saturday, which will hinder me of a little pleasure, but I am glad of her coming."
About Friday 20 April 1666
San Diego Sarah • Link
"What could there possibly be about Sam and Bess to gossip about?"
Does Pepys know that a prophet is never recognized in his own country? His neighbors have seen/met his parents, so they know of his humble origins ... seen Balty, so they think Elizabeth a suspect pretentious French woman ... and listened to Wayneman's howls. They see his house growing larger and more opulent every year. They give him rides in their coaches, host parties and have him to lunch, which he rarely reciprocates, all while begrudging them their "gratuities."
Seems to me he has been doing his best to ignore the neighbors for years already.
About Thursday 19 April 1666
San Diego Sarah • Link
I'm sure Elizabeth is fairly well informed about Pepys' financial affairs ... but the strong box is in his closett, and he has the key. I believe he looks carefully at the end of the month accounts she prepares. I presume he regularly gives her money to buy food, and I trust he gives out more than we are told for clothing and livery for Tom. I think he has a quiet chuckle with her when he pulls a fast one, or marvels at the generosity of Mr. Warren. She may not know the exact figures involved, but she knows that portrait is symbolic of having "made it" ... she enjoys the silk wall paper in her room ... she polishes that carved staircase with pride, and sits on her new balcony with pleasure. She knows her clever husband can find a way to give Pall more, and he can afford more now for his parents than he could when their deal was agreed. I think this self-confidence grew last summer when she was mostly on her own for six months. It even sounds like she rode unescorted in the coach from Brampton this time (daring the highwaymen to show themselves?). Pepys appears to be enjoying his more liberated wife than the passive-aggressive, sulky one he had for a couple of years before the plague. He is certainly proud of her painting talent and beauty, and trusted her with these negotiations. They are maturing into full-grown adults and partners.
About Thursday 19 April 1666
San Diego Sarah • Link
No mention of Bess liking the new balconies and seats on the leads. Pepys was so proud of these improvements!
About Sunday 15 April 1666
San Diego Sarah • Link
I googled "lay down my cloak" and came up with many Palm Sunday references to laying down palms and cloaks before Jesus as he rode into Jerusalem. But that was last weekend.
About Monday 16 April 1666
San Diego Sarah • Link
"I was considering where I could with most confidence in a time of need borrow 10s. ...."
I had assumed that Pepys was in charge of what we would consider Petty Cash. After all, he doles it out to the Admirals when the fleet sails:
http://www.pepysdiary.com/diary/1…
"... there comes W. Howe for my Lord’s bill of Imprest for 500l. to carry with him this voyage,"
'This is petty cash for the 12 ships under Sandwich's control. He may have to buy provisions, water, masts, or pay for innkeepers to care for sick or injured seamen, etc. during the voyage, so he needs a cash float.'
And Pepys seems to use it to buy books for himself and the office. I had considered balancing Petty Cash to be one of the problems he had with his monthly accounts.
Getting these lined books ready for the Muster-Masters is a legitimate expense. All I can think is that the Navy is now out of cash, so the Petty Cash/Imprest is empty. The old woman would not want a tally stick to negotiate at the goldsmiths.
Surely Pepys could have gone to Penn or Brouncker? Parliament is not sitting, so they are presumably in the office -- and they knew the Navy was broke, as did Carteret, as we know. Perhaps this would have involved loss of face, as Pepys has been throwing his money around recently and they would wonder why he didn't front the money?
A personal loan would be a whole different, more political problem than paying for some lined paper.
About Monday 16 April 1666
San Diego Sarah • Link
"Up, and set my people, Mercer, W. Hewer, Tom and the girle at work ..."
So much for my idea that Tom Edwards is with Elizabeth, freeing up his bedroom for the renovations. Perhaps Elizabeth's independent summer showed Pepys that she doesn't need a chaperone any more? Nah -- he was showing her off at Westminster Hall recently, so she was still beautiful. Could Pepys have sent the cook? Highly unlikely ...
About Monday 16 April 1666
San Diego Sarah • Link
Betty Martin Lane – Only six weeks ago: “and then to Mrs. Lane’s, and there lent her 5l. upon 4l. 01s. in gold. And then did what I would with her, and I perceive she is come to be very bad, and offers any thing, that it is dangerous to have to do with her, nor will I see [her] any more a good while.” -- https://www.pepysdiary.com/diary/…
And in that six weeks no mention of writing any vows.
About Sunday 15 April 1666
San Diego Sarah • Link
"... stood in his closett with a great many others ..."
In some wealthy houses the room next to the chapel had a window in the wall overlooking the alter. That way, when the King/Lord of the Manor or a member of his family was ill, they could technically attend Mass without getting dressed and going out into public -- or even getting out of bed. The room could also be used as a discreet overflow balcony, as in this case.